The Bella 36-inch is my second pizza oven (I know, I know — when I get excited about something, I really get excited; and btw I have six grills). Our first pizza oven is a traditional refractory oven; it’s big, and imposing looking, and it’s not going anywhere. Ever.

When my husband (I call him “Cinder-fella”) lights that big-boy up, he takes from 3 to 3 1/2 hours to reach pizza temperature. This is a fun excuse to listen to music and read the New York Times on his phone while he slowly and constantly feeds the fire, but besides eating up a lot of time, it also uses a huge amount of wood.

So when we needed a second oven for the little vacation rental on our property in Paso Robles, the Bella was a no-brainer for us. We often have weeknight wine-maker dinner at the property, and I teach cooking classes there about once a month, many of them involving the oven.

Cinder-fella fires up the Bella, and 45 minutes later, we are ready to slide in a disk of ethereal dough, sparingly topped with wine-country goodness (like leek jam, Meyer lemon, capers, and soft sheep’s cheese). The floor retains heat just as well as the big refractory oven, and we go through about an amazing one-quarter of the amount of wood. The flip side of the fast heat-up time is a fast cool-down, but unless you are thinking of a 5-hour cook, this shouldn’t make much of a difference. In that case, anyway, you could just keep feeding it with wood. After we close the door at the end of a pizza event/evening, the oven stands all night and still registers 125° the next morning. Ours sits on a permanent plinth (and looks just gorgeous — very sleek and perfectly in keeping with the rustic industrial elegance of the Refugio Paso Robles look), but for those who may be moving soon, or can’t decide where to entertain, the relative portability would be a big draw. I love my Bella, and am so happy she came to live with us!