In keeping with my desire to cook outside of the box when it comes to flatbreads, here is a real flavor-palooza of a pie, that is (yes, Virginia) actually cheese-free! The leek jam does take a little time, but the result is worth it, and I encourage you to make double or triple the recipe, then freeze it in smaller containers so that when the urge strikes, you’ll be ready to pull and stretch your way to wood-oven bliss.

Let the revels begin!


Makes one @13-inch flatbread; may be doubled

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
2 small or 1 medium leek, white and light green parts only, well washed and very finely chopped
1 tablespoon medium-dry white wine, such as Viognier
2 cloves garlic, minced or pushed through a press
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Meyer lemon (substitute an orange if unavailable), washed
One 9-ounce dough ball, at room temperature
Rice flour and cornmeal, for shaping and cooking the pizza
2/3 cup pitted kalamata olives, halved
Small handful (about 1/3 cup) roughly chopped fresh dill
3 salt-cured anchovies, boned and halved, or 6 white anchovies (boquerones)

In a heavy skillet over medium-low heat, warm the 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the leek(s) and wine, stir to blend, and cover the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 20 minutes. Uncover the pan and cook, stirring more frequently now, until most of the liquid has evaporated and the leeks are slightly golden, 5 to 10 minutes more. Be careful not to let them scorch; remove from the heat and thoroughly stir in the garlic. (This may be done ahead of time.)
Trim the ends from the lemon and slice lengthwise into ¼-inch wedges. Trim away the flesh so that only about 1/8-inch of flesh remains attached to the peel. Slice the peel crosswise into ¼-inch dice.

Build a very hot fire in your oven, and wait until the floor and walls achieve your target temperature. Flour a board and your hands with rice flour, then stretch and pull the dough (never press) into a roughly 13-inch round or oval; don’t try to make it perfect. Transfer the dough circle to a wooden pizza peel liberally sprinkled with cornmeal. Working quickly, drizzle (or spray) the dough with about 1 tablespoon of olive oil, staying away from the edges. Spread/dollop the leek jam somewhat evenly over the top, leaving a 1-inch border. Scatter the lemon dice, olives, and dill over the top, then lay the anchovies across the dough radiating out from the center like the spokes of a wheel, always leaving a 1-inch border. Jiggle the dough on the peel to make sure its still mobile, then slide it smoothly onto the hot baking steel. Bake until the edges are golden. Retrieve with a metal pizza peel (or a rimless baking sheet), transfer to a cutting board, slice, and enjoy.